There was a palpable air of excitement at Cork airport on Wednesday morning March 26th as a group of twenty six fellow travellers, retired teachers with family and friends, met and greeted each other. Spirits were high as we boarded the aircraft for the short trip to Scotland. Some had been to Edinburgh before and for some like myself it was the first trip. In no time at all we were flying over Dublin and had been in the air for less than an hour when we touched down on the tarmac.
Our arrival ran smoothly as one of our organisers had advised us to get the Airlink shuttle bus to Waverly Station in the centre, tickets for which could be pre-booked online. This didn’t stop myself and my traveling companion from getting on the Glasgow Bus and only for the sharpness of the driver we were prevented from a regrettable start.
Waverly was a short walk uphill to our well chosen hotel, the Ibis on Hunter Square, right in the centre of the city and the Royal Mile. On stepping off the bus I was immediatedly transported into sight seeing heaven by the beauty of Saint James’ Park with its paths and lawns and pretty spring flowers beckoning in the sunshine. A photo opportunity straight away. This led to a short walk to observe one of Edinburgh’s iconic landmarks, the Scott monument dedicated to the author Sir Walter Scott. The towering Gothic monument stands 61 meters tall and has a museum inside. It has the distinction of being the worlds second tallest monument to a writer. By now the rest of the entourage had probably reached the hotel and as I was effectively lost and under the spell of a ‘ meascán mearaí’ in an unfamiliar city, I called a taxi to get me to the hotel.
There followed three wonderful days and nights in this historical and welcoming city that had something for everyone. Whether it’s history or culture, fine dining or shopping, it’s all there to be enjoyed. Some of us ate at ‘The Ivy On the Square’, that first night which had been reccommended by another of the organisers. It is described as a ‘modern, all day brasserie in a refined art filled space’. What a wonderful experience and the food was excellent. Bravely I tried the haggis which was a starter of haggis bon bons with a malt whiskey and wholegrain mustard mayonnaise. This pudding is traditionally made from sheeps pluck (heart, lungs,and liver) with oatmeal and spices encased in a sheep’s stomach. The sharp flavour of the mayonnaise almost obscured the distinct aftertaste of the sheep, almost.
On the second night the whole group dined together at Vittoria on the Bridge. The very tasty food was typical of an Italian restaurant and my abiding memory of that evening was the exciting clamour of conversation as our group had settled in together and new friendships were being forged. On the third evening, along with my traveling companion, we decided to dine at the Mussel and Steak bar at Grassmarket on the lower end of Victoria Street on our way back from seeing the sights, too weary to make the effort to return to the hotel and change. This restaurant which had a somewhat plain and well worn interior certainly delivered the fish that were being served to many of the customers in mounds on their plates. The oysters were a complimentary starter and I can say I relished mine.
One of the many great aspects of this trip was that the participants could follow their own schedule. Also, no one was left on their own and there was great camaraderie and a sense of adventure. The Royal Mile is a street that is situated at the centre of the historic old town and runs from the famous castle at the top end down to Holyrood House, the Royal Residence in Edinburgh. Holyroodhouse lies in the shadow of Arthur’s seat, a hill of 250 meters with an extinct volcano at it’s peak. No sooner had some of our intrepid adventurers arrived in Edinburgh than they set off down the street to climb to the top of the peak where they enjoyed some scenic and panoramic views over the city. I really enjoyed my visit to Hollyrood Palace, the Royal Families’ residence in Edinburgh. The tour included the state rooms, full of history, portraits ornaments and furniture. S
tories abounded about figures like Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie and it was here that the body of Queen Elizabeth II lay in state for a night before being transferred to nearby St Giles Cathedral and then flown to London in September 2022. The Scottish Parliament, a modern building inaugurated in 2004, is located just across the road from Holyroodhouse Palace and was visited by some of our group. Apart from a security check there is easy access to the building which has a gift shop and nice café.
Edinburgh Castle is no doubt the most famous site in the city. There is so much to see here that it is the type of place to be returned to if one can again and again. This tall volcanic rock has been inhabited for over a millenium becoming a royal residence by the medieval era and giving rise to the city which grew up around it. There is a sense of power and majesty about the place that nearly defies description. Everyone who visits will have their own memories. It was so windy I had to buy a band for my hair in the giftshop to keep it attached to my head!
Among the other sites visited on our trip was St Giles Cathedral on the Royal Mile. A place of worship for 900 years, closely associated with John Knox and royalty also. Incredibly beautiful architectural features, this High Kirk of Scotland has a rich history. Some of the thespians in the group enjoyed an evening of light opera here on the final night.Many little narrow alleys lead from the main streets and are full of character. Mary King’s Close proved to be a popular tour where we were taken under street level and gained an insight into the medieval city, with tales of myths, legends, hauntings and plague.
A walk down colourful Victoria Street was like stepping into a Harry Potter novel. It is thought to have inspired the author JK Rowling, a resident of the city. Some of the group enjoyed a visit to the Botanic Gardens or a stroll around the lively Grassmarket area with its shops and stunning views of the Castle. All in all we packed in a lot of sightseeing on this short break, helped by the bright Spring sunshine and an off season mid-week which meant the streets were not so crowded.
We had our choice of hostelries at night after dining especially those on either side of the hotel, the Advocate Bar and Restaurant and the Piper’s Rest where the musical entertainment was very enjoyable. I believe a card game or two was played as well.
We returned to Cork on Saturday afternoon, March 29th, weary but elated from our travels. Great memories and new and renewed friendships were made. Buíochas mór to Mary Cahill and Frank Tobin who made an excellent job of organising this Highland Fling of ours!
Report by Kathleen Flynn. Thank you, Kathleen.
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